Deemiorgos
I want to improve the weathering on these flat car decks. They are exposed to a lot of rain, snow, and heat in the summers. The circa is 1956.
 
I did not weather the CNR cars, they came that way from someone that I got them from.
 
The black flat car, I weathered many years ago and was my first attempt at weathering a flat car.
 
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Reply 3
blindog10
Some wood decks are creosoted and weather like your examples. Some are untreated wood and weather to a lighter grey. The key in either case is using several shades of greys along with highlighting with other colors so they don't look too uniform.
 
I like your cars' decks.    However, by rule the couplers should not be painted. It did happen though, especially for publicity photos.
 
Scott Chatfield
Reply 3
Deemiorgos
Some wood decks are creosoted and weather like your examples. Some are untreated wood and weather to a lighter grey. The key in either case is using several shades of greys along with highlighting with other colors so they don't look too uniform.
 
I like your cars' decks.    However, by rule the couplers should not be painted. It did happen though, especially for publicity photos.
 
Scott Chatfield
Thanks Scott.
 
I will change the colour of the couplers. A flat off-black?
Reply 2
blindog10
They're generally a rusty grey. Or a greyish rust..... And it's not something that's changed much over the years, unlike wheels. Wheels on plain bearing trucks should have oily black faces nce they are coated with oil leaks out of the journal boxes.
 
Scott Chatfield
Reply 2
mesimpson
I would suggest using Vallejo Game Effects Dry Rust (72.136). This is my go to for couplers, wheel faces etc.  
 
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Reply 2
next stop
Deem,
 
I'm not sure if this is helpful or not but I generally don't worry about weathering flat car decks. Instead I use it as an excuse to use one of my favorite materials - weathered strip wood. I use very thin strip wood to cover plastic decks or when I am building or scratch building flat car decks I'll use weathered wood. Not as fond of laser cut wood decking because the grain is continuous through the piece limiting the depth and texture you get from individual strips. I often will use scratch back techniques on the car sides.
 
flat-010-.jpg
Scratch built shorty flat with scratch back weathered sides.
 
YV-flats-pair-.jpg
YV flats with shape ways printed frames with individual wood board decking.
 
Bragdon powders and rust washes might be a place to start if you want more extreme weathering.
 
Guy

See stuff at:  Thewilloughbyline.com

Reply 3
debaker02
I want to improve the weathering on these flat car decks. They are exposed to a lot of rain, snow, and heat in the summers. The circa is 1956.
 
I did not weather the CNR cars, they came that way from someone that I got them from.
 
The black flat car, I weathered many years ago and was my first attempt at weathering a flat car.
 
IMG_9861.jpeg
 
IMG_9862.jpeg
 
IMG_9863.jpeg
Hey,
Paint a base coat of grey. Then you either go all acrylic or you mix in enamels and oils just like the other question you asked.
 
Here are two videos with the techniques:
 
 
Or
 
 
David
Reply 2
Al Carter tabooma county rwy
If I am weathering a plastic decked flatcar, I will usually spray it with a tan or gray, or combination of both, after masking the sides and undercarriage. Then, when the spray paint is dry, I will follow up with either acrylic washes, board by board, or sometimes I use Prismacolor gray tone markers in various strengths.
 
But recently I've taken to using the already-scribed, thin wood decking, like from ITLA Scale Models, and then add further weathering. I haven't yet gone to the length that Guy has, employing board by board decking, but readily admit that his is probably "the ultimate" appearing flat car deck.
 
Al Carter, Mount Vernon, WA
Reply 1
Ben MEC/CP Rail guy
then add further weathering
What do you typically do? I've got a couple wood decks on their way to me from ITLA.
 
And I know it's off topic, but what do you use to glue the decks to the flatcars?
Ben
Prototype Modeling a quarter mile of Vermont Railway's Northern Subdivision, 1990~2000
Reply 2
next stop
If I am weathering a plastic decked flatcar, I will usually spray it with a tan or gray, or combination of both, after masking the sides and undercarriage. Then, when the spray paint is dry, I will follow up with either acrylic washes, board by board, or sometimes I use Prismacolor gray tone markers in various strengths.
 
But recently I've taken to using the already-scribed, thin wood decking, like from ITLA Scale Models, and then add further weathering. I haven't yet gone to the length that Guy has, employing board by board decking, but readily admit that his is probably "the ultimate" appearing flat car deck.
 
Al Carter, Mount Vernon, WA
Al,
 
Once you get started with board by board, it seems less tedious. Flat car decks are the perfect gateway into the board by board obsession....... er..... ahhh modeling. BTW: Thanks for the kind words.
 
Ben - I would use Aleene's tacky glue in a thin layer if you are gluing the wood to plastic. Gap filling CA would work as well but you have less adjustment time...
 
Guy

See stuff at:  Thewilloughbyline.com

Reply 0
Ancientmariner
Just an idea concerning the laser-cut scribed wood decks. They are convenient, but lack the look of individual boards because of the running grain pattern.  Maybe cut them apart along the scribed lines? Then reassemble them out of order, with about half of the planks turned end for end. Sand and weather the plank ends individually.  If doing several cars, you could mix the planks from multiple decks, for greater variations. A lot more work, yes, but not as much as tediously cutting each piece of stripwood to length. You'd probably have to sand the cut edges to prevent the reassembled strip from 'growing' longer than the flatcar. You could stagger the plank ends a bit across the width of the car, to avoid perfect alignment.
R/ Tony Anderson
 
Half of what I know is wrong. Bear with me while I figure out which half.
Reply 2
joef
I would use Deluxe Materials Roket Card glue, it is made to glue porous materials (cardstock, stripwood) to non porous materials such as plastic, leather, or metal. It also is like superglue for cardstock and stripwood -- cardstock to cardstock/stripwood gluing grabs fast -- much better than white glue. Plus it gives you a few seconds of time to make sure things are aligned. More forgiving than CA.
 

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Reply 2
Juanfran
What do you typically do? I've got a couple wood decks on their way to me from ITLA.
 
And I know it's off topic, but what do you use to glue the decks to the flatcars?
A strong double sided adhesive tape. Tesa 4965 or similar.
Southern Pacific, the gray that brightens your day !  ©
Reply 0
Al Carter tabooma county rwy
What do you typically do? I've got a couple wood decks on their way to me from ITLA.
 
And I know it's off topic, but what do you use to glue the decks to the flatcars?
Hi, Ben,
 
What I used the last couple of times I did this was some E-6000 that I had on hand. It is super strong, but gives lots of working time. They have a black version, too, with a pin-point applicator that I use for tar lines on roofs, etc.
 
But Guy's suggestion of Aleene's tacky glue is an excellent one, too - I've used various versions of that product for years.
 
I see Joe mentioned Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue, and darn it, I didn't even think of using it (I have a bottle of it on the workbench, along with various Deluxe Materials products). In fact, I've become quite a fan of that product line - they have some excellent products! I have an upcoming flat car deck project and will try the Roket Card Glue.  
 
I'm not sure about "double sided tape" as it has some thickness to it, but "transfer tape" (a 3M product) is ultra-thin and would probably work well. It is, I think, the adhesive found on some laser cut structure kits - almost just a tacky glue surface. Good stuff, but a bit tricky to use sometimes.
 
Al Carter, Mount Vernon, WA
Reply 0
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